Lhamoi Dromchoe

When it happens

It usually falls in late winter, over three days.

Where it happens

Trongsa Dzong is the largest dzong (fortress) in Bhutan. It stands on a spur above the Mangde Chhu.

The dzong’s goenkhang (protector-deity chapel) enshrines Palden Lhamo and Yeshe Goenpo. They are the guardian deities a Lhamoi Dromchoe propitiates, which ties the festival to this dzong.

The present dzong was built in 1647 under Chogyal Minjur Tenpa.

History

This dromchoe (a ritual for a protector deity) is dedicated to Palden Lhamo, the guardian deity of Bhutan, and is distinct from the tshechus (festivals honouring Guru Rinpoche).

In the wider Lhamoi Dromchoe tradition, the sacred dance is usually traced to Je Kuenga Gyaltshen, a reincarnation in the line of a son of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, in the early 18th century.

According to tradition, Palden Lhamo appeared to Je Kuenga Gyaltshen in meditation and revealed the sacred dance to him.

Rituals

In the Lhamoi Dromchoe tradition, the signature dance is usually described as the Lhamoi Tshomi Kuncham, a cham (sacred mask dance).

In that tradition, the sacred Lhamoi Tshomi mask is usually described as kept within the kilkhor (mandala) and shown to the public only after the preparatory prayers.

The dance is usually described as preceded by the Lhawang Drupchhoe (preparatory rites) of the monastic body, and as held to bless and purify misfortunes for the coming year.

Being there

Trongsa Dzong sits on the central east-west highway above the Mangde Chhu and is visible from far along the road. That makes it an easy stop if you are travelling between western Bhutan and Bumthang.