Thimphu Dromchoe

When it happens

The public dances are held in the days just before the Thimphu Tshechu, which usually begins on the tenth day of the eighth lunar month.

Its dates are usually described as fixed to the Bhutanese lunar calendar, shifting each year and falling in September or occasionally in early October.

Where it happens

The festival is held in the courtyard of Tashichho Dzong, the same courtyard that then hosts the Thimphu Tshechu.

The dzong (fortress) stands close to Thimphu town, by the Wang Chhu river. It is the seat of the Royal Government and houses the throne room, the King’s offices, the secretariat, and the home and finance ministries. It contains some thirty temples, chapels and shrines.

History

Je Kuenga Gyaltshen instituted the festival. He was the first reincarnation of Jampel Dorji, a son of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The festival’s founding is usually placed between 1705 and 1709.

According to tradition, Palden Lhamo appeared before Kuenga Gyaltshen in meditation and performed the dance, which he then instituted.

The festival is dedicated to Palden Lhamo, the protecting deity of Bhutan. It pairs with the Thimphu Tshechu that follows. The Thimphu Tshechu honours Guru Rinpoche, while the Thimphu Dromchoe is the rite for the protecting deity.

Rituals

Each year, monks of the Central Monastic Body first perform the Lhawang Drupchhoe (a closed monastic ceremony of about fifteen days). The public dances are its culmination.

On the public day or days, monks and artists from the Traditional Performing Arts and Music Division perform cham (sacred mask dances) and songs. Among them is the Lhamoi Tshomi Kuncham (the Palden Lhamo dance). It is believed to bless devotees and purify the year’s misfortunes.

Being there

Thousands of devotees gather in the courtyard, along with international tourists.

The festival runs in the days just before the three-day Thimphu Tshechu, in the same courtyard, so one trip can take in both back to back.

Dress modestly, because Tashichho Dzong is an active seat of government and of the monastic body.